The lighthouse manager at Lindesnes told me that the good weather would continue for at least one week. That promised good for the first leg on this NPL, crossing some awesome mountains and fjords on the west coast of Norway.
Day 12 - Lindesnes to Evje
Distance/accumulated: 113.2 / 1122.9
Avg/max speed: 18.1 / 59.1
Elevation gain: 1532 m
The 30 km from Lindesnes to Lyngdal was so hilly and strenuous, that I did a last minute change of plan in Lyngdal while I ate a hotdog for lunch. Instead of continuing the hilly coastline to Farsund and beyond, I chose a completely different route up to Eiken and Sveindal to eventually join the pleasant valley of Setesdal. What I didn't know, however, was that I had to cross 3-4 valleys between Eiken and Evje in crazy hot weather (30+). Almost collapsed because of too little water on the remote road. Had to ring the bell on a nearby house in Sveindal, and out came a nice lady who gave me plenty of cold water...
Day 13 - Evje to Flateland (Valle)
Distance/accumulated: 102.2 / 1225.1
Avg/max speed: 22.6 / 43.5
Elevation gain: 699 m
A nice and relatively short day in beautiful Setesdal. Checked in at Flateland campground some few kilometers beyond Valle, in order to rest my legs for the big hills to Hovden and Haukeli tomorrow...
Day 14 - Flateland to Haukelifjell
Distance/accumulated: 107.1 / 1332.2
Avg/max speed: 18.7 / 48.2
Elevation gain: 1481 m
Gentle uphills from Valle to Hovden, then steep down to Haukeligrend before I started the uphills to Haukelifjell. I'm camping some few kilometers beyond Haukeliseter, next to the beautiful lake, peaceful and completely alone.
Day 15 - Haukelifjell to Kvanndal
Distance/accumulated: 115.5 / 1447.7
Avg/max speed: 20.6 / 50.6
Elevation gain: 1130 m
In the bumpy downhills to Røldal, the rear luggage rack broke. I managed to fix it temporarily with a steel wire. On my way up to Røldalsfjellet I had to cycle through a long tunnel (6km), because the old road through Seljestadjuvet was not opened for the summer. That is a tunnel record for me on two wheels.
The road between Røldal and Odda was very scenic, with some awesome waterfalls along the road. Now camping in Kvanndal shortly before Voss.
Day 16 - Kvanndal to Sogndal
Distance/accumulated: 94.0 / 1541.7
Avg/max speed: 18.8 / -
Elevation gain: 989 m
The uphills between Granvin and Voss was steep but fairly short, besides I got to see this wonderful waterfall too. Another impressing waterfall (and crowds of tourists) halfway between Voss and Vinje (Tvindefossen). At Vinje I continued on the scenic road to Gudvangen eventually taking the old road down Stalheimskleiva, which must be one of the steepest roads in the world at almost 20 degrees angle. Fortunately it was downhill for northbound people like me.
I had to wait almost 3 hours for the ferry between Gudvangen and Kaupanger. This is probably the most scenic ferry trip in the entire world, through the beautiful and narrow Nærøyfjord, an UNESCO world heritage listing. The mountains rises near vertical to 1800 meters above the fjord.
After the 2 hours ferry trip, I continued the few kilometers to Kjørnes (just before Sogndal) to visit my brother and his wife. We had barbecue at midnight.
Day 17 - Sogndal to Vassenden
Distance/accumulated: 135.7 / 1677.4
Avg/max speed: 17.8 / 52.2
Elevation gain: 1849 m
Pleasant cycling along Sognefjord the first 40 km to the ferry between Hella and Dragsvik. Then more pleasant cycling until the killer hills to Gaularfjell (a chasing dog also wanted to kill me here). I had foolishly forgot to buy drinks and snacks in Leikanger. On this remote road there was not a single shop, so I had no energy left when I finally got to the top of Gaularfjell, after frequent stops in shades and rivers, to cool down from the deadly hot sun.
Coming down from Gaularfjell, fatigued as ever before, I was caught by surprise when I found a place to buy a burger and french fries in Viksdalen. Without this energy booster I would surely not had been able to continue the uphills before Moskog.
Drank more than 8 litres today, still dark brown pee here at Vassenden camping after a long and grueling day in the crazy hot sun.
Day 18 - Vassenden to Stryn
Distance/accumulated: 103.3 / 1780.7
Avg/max speed: 20.0 / 57.2
Elevation gain: 932 m
Along Jølster lake I was cruising in 30-35 km/h right behind 4 bikini girls on their racing bikes. What a difference it make to have somebody in front of you.
Våtedalen is a beautiful valley with steep mountains on both sides. Then uphills to Utvikfjellet, before exhilarating downhills to Nordfjord where pleasant roads takes you through Utvik, Innvik, Olden, Loen and finally Stryn.
Day 19 - Stryn (restday)
Day 20 - Stryn (restday)
Previous leg: Oslo to Lindesnes
Next leg: Stryn to Namsos